Saturday, June 30

Europe: Day 18 Rome

Today was another long one, filled to the brim.  As usual, Dusty was up and ready before me.  He left to get breakfast while I showered and tidied the room up.  Soon he came back with pastries and fruit for us.  After checking our supplies, we left for another day in Rome.  We walked to the site of the ancient Baths of Diocletian, which now lie in the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli.  



The only things remaining of the baths, available for viewing that is, were 8 red granite columns still being used in the support of the walls.


The organ of the church was an impressive sight.  Can you imagine playing that?  You can hardly find the keyboards!


Very soon, we walked a little north to the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.  It's a small church albeit very ornate.  On the west side is the sculpture by Bernini of St. Teresa in Ecstasy.


Almost next door is another little church-- Santa Susanna.  The alterpiece is very eye catching.  It was starting to get warm outside and the churches were a cool respite.


Using our map, we began walking toward the Roman Forum.  We passed lots of embassies and official-looking government buildings.  We would continue to see random ruins excavated twenty feet below us.  It was exciting to be walking off the beaten path and not running into very many other tourists.



Before we knew it, we had almost reached our destination.  Before us we could see the giant Victor Emmanuel Monument and also Trajan's Column.  This column gives us a continuous narration of history as is spirals around the pillar.



You can't really tell, but this Monument is massive.  Victor is sitting triumphantly atop his horse in front of the building, and to put it in perspective, just his moustache is over 5 feet long!


As we walked south, we came to Caesar's Forum, which is basically an excavated area being restored and preserved, of the most central areas of Ancient Rome.


We used our Roma Pass to get us in and bypass the lines.  We followed Rick Steves little self-guided tour and walked through the old ruins.



This is part of the Forum's Ancient Main Square.


This magnificent thing is the Arch of Septimius Severus.


Here are remnants of the Temple of Saturn.  This was the Forum's oldest temple, built in 497 BC.


The statues used to line the House of the Vestal Virgins.  These girls were chosen before they were 10, and lived as virgins for 30 years.  If she lived as she was supposed to she was given a huge dowry and allowed to marry when she was 40.



Here is Dusty attempting to find some shade after refilling our water bottles with fresh, cool water from one of the many public water fountains in the city.  Such a great thing Rome has going for it!  Never buy bottled water here; after awhile you can always find a fountain.


The Forum was very fascinating and we wandered through it for quite some time.  Leaving from the south exit, our eyes were met with the Arch of Constantine.  This arch is decorated with carvings rescued from other crumbling and decaying buildings.  It marks the time when Christianity became the mainstream religion.


Right next to the Arch is the the Colosseum!  Something everybody needs to see once, we admired it for a bit before getting up close and personal.



An interesting fact:  The bottom layer of columns are Doric, the middle layer Ionic, and the top are Corinthian.  Cool huh?  

We used our Roma Pass again to get in and bypass the lines--which were extensive.  After breezing in, we read about the creation of the Colosseo and how they know so much about it.  When people used to watch the games in the ancient times, they used to chisel in "graffiti" about their favorite gladiators.  Because of this, we know names of gladiators and what they looked like.  Maybe they weren't so different from us-- in that some of us have no problem with defacing public property.  Don't look at me!




Climbing up to the top sections, you have a pretty good view of the entire arena.  They have covered a portion of the floor, giving us a good idea of how it may have looked way back when.  In ancient times, they strung a giant canvas awning across the top to give the spectators shade. 

Speaking of shade, by this time it was starting to get hot and we decided it was time to find a cool place.




We read that a sculpture by Michelangelo was in a nearby Church, St. Peter in Chains, and we thought that it sounded interesting, so we took the metro to the Church.  Alas, it was closed for the midday break, which stupid me could have discovered sooner if I had only consulted the RS Bible,  ahem,  guidebook.

Instead we found some pizzas to eat nearby and took them back to eat in the shade of the Church.  
Not a super-flattering one of me, but forgive me, I was starving.  :)




Instead of trudging somewhere else in the heat, we took the metro up a stop to Termini and walked to our hotel for a little siesta.  It was fabulous.  After about an hour of rest, we were ready to begin our second part of sight-seeing for the day.

The National Museum of Rome has four different locations, and the one we wanted to see was very near our hotel.  This Museum was also very empty--when compared to the crowds of the Colosseum.  It has a very good collection of ancient Roman sculpture.  Our favorites:  The best Roman copy of the Greek Discus Thrower, the sculpture of the Sitting Boxer, the collection of ancient Roman jewelry, and a incredible coin collection from every age in history (the best in Europe evidently).  




This carved sarcophagus was very absorbing.  We looked at it for quite some time.




They also had mosaics and frescos from the walls and floors of ancient Roman homes.  You guess is as good as mine about what is happening in this one!




After the cool (meant both ways) Museum, we ventured into the more unknown part of the city to visit the MAXXI-- the Modern Art Museum of Rome.  We hopped on the tram and hoped that we could follow the map well enough to find it.  Find it we did, but much to our dismay it was closing in half an hour and they wouldn't sell us tickets!  Hint:  we didn't get our faulty information from the RS book, but from another source.  We were incredibly sad.  

We did find this Church on the way, though.  If that's any consolation.



With some amount of despair, we took the tram back to the Piazza del Popolo.  But after coming back to our senses we remembered that we were in ROME!  And it was turning out to be a beautiful evening.

In the Piazza is yet another obelisk, which once stood in the Temple of Ramses II in Egypt.  There are two twin churches (one seen below).  Also in the Piazza is the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo which contains the Chigi Chapel (which book has this chapel in its plot?) and many Caravaggio paintings.



Via del Corso is the main street leading south down towards the Victor Emmanuel Monument.  We started walking along it and also succumbed to more gelato, this time with whipped cream on top.   About fifteen minutes later we turned down a side street to see the Ara Pacis and Mausoleum of Augustus.  But before we made it, we saw a heavenly-looking little restaurant and decided to get some dinner.    We ate at Re Cafe and shared a Margherita pizza and pasta with goat cheese and mussels.  We also enjoyed several glasses of sparkling water (our new favorite thing) and basked in the sunset.  Street musicians were also playing.

 The sum of these things =  a perfect way to spend our last night here in Rome.



We did end up wandering around the Ara Pacis and on the far side of it is this little modern fountain.




As the night started to fall, we did a bit of shopping.  We found a GAP and both of us got several shirts.  
We looked at more shoes, but didn't find the perfect fit.






Since we were so close, we stopped by the Trevi Fountain again.  I'm glad we did.  It was so much fun to see at night.  We bought drinks at a shop nearby and joined the masses in celebrating Rome.



After our drinks were gone, we picked ourselves up and continued our night walk.  We made it back to the Monument, which had fantastic night lights.


A Police Officer was nearby to keep the peace.



Our final stop in this long day was saying goodbye to the Colosseum before getting onto the Metro. 
We made it back to our hotel and packed up most of our luggage for our flight in the morning.  Even though we were exhausted, we face-timed our family to say we were excited to be coming home!




Dusty and I loved Rome, we had such a great time.

What I want to remember about Rome:

wild red poppies on the train tracks             one man singing to another in the post office
sitting in the Colosseum            eating dinner together al fresco        realizing we liked sparkling water
the first hot day of vacation              the crazy airport            waiters trying to persuade you to eat
a pigeon in the airport             mix of old and "newer"              so many many churches
cold drinking fountains all over the city             flowers cascading from buildings        busy piazzas
the jam packed, irregular metro          sunlight reflecting off the colorful structures           statues
window shopping              pizzas dripping with cheese and crisp crusts           Italian TV
women in fabulous but impractical shoes              the courtyard into our hotel       crazy drivers           

Wednesday, June 27

Europe: Day 17 Rome

Happy Birthday Dusty!  What a lucky guy getting to celebrate in Rome!  I told Dusty he could choose whatever we did today (before we left on the trip), so what follows is what he decided......

Today was a HUGE sight-filled day.  We woke after a good sleep and left about 8:00am.  We walked to Termini Station.  There at the TI we bought our Roma Passes, at 30 Euros each.  The pass comes with a 3 day public transportation card and free entry to two museum + bypassing lines. Now we could get onto the metro.  It was JAMMED with people.  There are only two lines in Rome and they get crowded.  We got onto the car and rode up to Cipro station, which was near Vatican City.  From here, we walked up a bunch of stairs and then followed along the Vatican Wall to......


Yes, the Vatican Museum.  I had booked reservations online in advance and we showed up a little before our scheduled time.  There was no one in the reservation line and the guys let us sail through even though we were a little early.  After security, we exchanged our voucher for actual tickets and then entered the Museum.  The regular line stretched as far as we could see around the other side of the Wall.


After coming to the beginning of the exhibits, we got teased with a glimpse of St. Peter's Dome.


We chose to see the Egyptian area first.  Here is a portion of it, extending into the Roman area.  We loved the Egyptian stuff.  The best places to see artifacts are:  the British Museum, the Louvre, the Berlin Egyptian Museum, and the Vatican Musuem.   We hit three this trip!


Next, we ventured into the Greek/Roman sections.  Here is the famous Laocoon, warning Troy to beware of Greek gifts.  The Gods got angry and sent snakes to crush him and his sons.  I absolutely despise snakes, so this makes it up there as one of my most feared ways to die.  See the snake biting his hip?  shudder


Just the Vatican building by itself is amazing.  Almost every ceiling was just as gorgeous as the items it housed.


An old fountain.  Probably awesome in it's prime.  Still awesome today.


Greenery mixed in with the ancient sculpture.  Giant cable nets cover this courtyard, so don't even think about being all Mission Impossible and stealing something.


I found this girl particularly beautiful.  I love the flow of her robes.  Don't they look comfortable?


A copy of the Discus Thrower.


Another stunning ceiling.


More beauty found up high.  Except these were painted by Raphael. Not too shabby, eh?


Even my wide-angle lens couldn't quite get this whole painting in.  This is the iconic Raphael fresco on the wall-- School of Athens.  It is something to see.  Plato making his point actually bears the face of Leonardo Da Vinci.


We also got to see the incredible, wondrous, exciting Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo.  (Picture Adam stretching his hand out to touch God's)  Since it was intensely restored, no one is allowed to take photos of it, which is a bit of a let down, but we were used to it by this point.  This ceiling is contended to be the "greatest-ever work of art by a single human being".   It is surreal to be sitting underneath it and taking it all in.  We sat for about twenty minutes (along with the other 500 people there) and marveled. It really is a magnificent work of art.

Still not done with the Museum, we saw the section of Modern Art, the fig-leaved statues, and the painting area with Caravaggios, Raphaels, etc.  We were really impressed with this museum.  Unfortunately all our brains could take was about four hours, and we decided to leave.

We walked to a little cafeteria and ate a good but pricy lunch.  What can you expect a block from St. Peter's Square?  After eating, we walked (following a bride getting her photos taken) into the Square.  This was a Wednesday, so part of the Square was taken up by chairs used by people who got to see the Pope that morning.


It's free to get in, so everyone has to wait in the same line.  We waited in line about 30 minutes to enter St. Peter's Basilica.  There was only one security section open (go figure), but no complaints.  It was cloudy and cool enough to be comfortable.


The square was a pretty impressive-- statues looking down at you with imposing faces and giant pillars in two semi-circles leading the eye up to the Basilica.


The view as entering the Basilica.  To say it is massive is like calling the sun bright.  The alter stands over 200 feet away.  It can hold 60,000 standing people.


These statues are incredibly huge up close.


The canopy is seven stories, and made of bronze.


Along the nave, plaques mark where other cathedrals end if they were placed inside the Basilica.

This copy of Raphael's Transfiguration is actually a mosaic of glass.


You can't leave the Basilica without stopping by Michelangelo's Pieta.  He was 24 when he sculpted this.


After wandering close to 45 minutes with the swarms of people, Dusty chose for us to climb to the top of the Dome.  We purchased our tickets opting to take the elevator a third of the way up (still over 300 remaining steps).  It gets very narrow and slightly curves inwards--it's easy to feel off balance.

A view of St. Peter's Square-- it's kind of funny they didn't call it "oval".


A more exciting view of Rome.  The big white building on the right is the Victor Emmanuel Monument.  How many churches can you count?  See the shallow, wide dome of the Pantheon in the middle? 


 There is a mezzanine level on the roof that give a good view of the dome.  We took this after we climbed halfway back down the stairs.


After exiting the Basilica completely, we admired the Guard's fancy getup, and then mailed some postcards from the Vatican Post Office.


From here we walked down the main large street from the square to Castel Sant'Angelo.  We were tired of being inside buildings so we didn't go in.  We followed the flow of the crowd across the Ponte Sant'Angelo, the bridge leading to downtown.


A lovely view from the bridge. The Romans don't really love their river.  It's pretty obvious.


From here we enjoyed a lazy walk down side streets to Piazza Navona, one of the biggest shopping areas for visitors.  We succumbed to purchasing three watercolors of Rome here.  This place was stimulating and relaxing at the same time.  Full of music, flowers, artists, and fountains. We also snagged some more gelato.... in cups this time.  :)  So good!



I just couldn't resist a picture of these amazing flowers.  Don't they compliment the building so well?


Our next amazing stop?  The Pantheon!  I have wanted to see this ever since I wrote an extensive paper on its architecture for my Art History class.  Built in 126 AD, it escaped being destroyed due to it's honor of the Gods/being a mausoleum.  It's very ancient and in very good condition.


The open cupola lets in the rain (there was still some puddles from last night's storm), and is an astounding architectural feat.  The dome is as high as it is wide.


We stopped and sat for a bit and then looked into all the niches.


There was a nearby grocery store that we used to buy drinks and sandwiches supplies.  It is illegal to "picnic" in Rome in main tourist areas, so we ate as we walked.  We passed by unexpected Roman ruins excavated in the streets.  I really loved the old feeling of this "eternal city".

Suddenly, quite literally, we were looking up at Trevi Fountain.  You can hear it before you see it, and it's very worthy of fighting the crowds for.  Built to show off Rome's aquaducts system, it's Baroque architecture built in 1762.


 We walked down the stairs to sit next to the fountain.  In this rare instance that I took advantage of, I got a picture of the fountain without anyone sitting near it.


Only few streets away are the Spanish Steps.  They are named for the Spanish Embassy which has been located here for 300 years.  It's quite the hangout place if you can't tell.


This fountain, the Sinking Boat Fountain, is at the bottom of the steps.  This is where we chose to sit-- while considering grabbing some clothes at Chanel and Gucci.


We sat until the world became dim and then we picked ourselves up and took the metro back to the Termini station and walked home.  We relaxed for a bit and then went to the lobby to facetime our family.  For some reason, the wifi signals are very weak in the hotel rooms.  It was so great to chat with the boys.  We missed them so so much.  I think they were ready to go home and we were ready to squeeze and kiss them.